GLOSSARY
Our ingredients & materials
We created our Glossary to provide an in-depth look at every ingredient and material we use across our products. We hope this exchange of educational information can be a tool that will empower you to make informed decisions about our products and others you encounter in your daily life.
We use a wide range of nourishing ingredients in our formulas and we aren’t here to demonize any ingredient that might be working for you. Our products are created with both natural and synthetic ingredients to create the most effective and gentle formulas possible. We understand that “natural” is an unregulated marketing term with broad definitions that are open to interpretation. We define natural ingredients as those produced from plant sources, like olive oil, rhassoul clay, and shea butter.
For each of our entries, we’ve included a range of relevant information in addition to links to related studies and sources so you can dive deeper on your own. We have also listed the safety of ingredients as assessed by the Cosmetics Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety. The CIR is a non-profit organization established in 1976 by the industry trade association (Personal Care Products Council) and operates with the support of the US Food and Drug Administration. The Expert Panel is an independent panel of experts (scientists, toxicologists, chemists, dermatologists, etc) that assess the safety of each individual ingredient. Reviews are funded by the CIR, but experts are independent from the Council and the cosmetics industry.
Where it’s relevant, we’ve also included ingredient safety as assessed by the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union. Both the United States and the European Union operate with strict guidelines around how products are formulated. And while the United States doesn’t have a list of 1,300 banned ingredients, it doesn’t mean that manufacturers can make cosmetic products with unsafe ingredients.
The US regulations state that companies are responsible for ensuring the safety of their products when used according to labeled directions or even in the way the product is commonly used. This regulation applies even when none of the ingredients in the product are prohibited or restricted.
If you have questions about ingredients or materials related to a health condition, please consult your physician. This glossary is for educational purposes only. Have a question or want to share interesting research? Don’t hesitate to reach out: info@shopwinden.com.
For each of our entries, we’ve included a range of relevant information in addition to links to related studies and sources so you can dive deeper on your own. We have also listed the safety of ingredients as assessed by the Cosmetics Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety. The CIR is a non-profit organization established in 1976 by the industry trade association (Personal Care Products Council) and operates with the support of the US Food and Drug Administration. The Expert Panel is an independent panel of experts (scientists, toxicologists, chemists, dermatologists, etc) that assess the safety of each individual ingredient. Reviews are funded by the CIR, but experts are independent from the Council and the cosmetics industry.
Terms
Emollient
Plant-based oils, esters, silicones, and more that help to soften the skin and hair. Emollients help smooth down the hair cuticle, sometimes resulting in softer feeling hair.
Humectant
A category of ingredients that absorb water from the surrounding atmosphere and draws it into skin and hair.
Occlusive
Film forming ingredients that create a physical barrier to prevent moisture loss, like petrolatum, beeswax, silicone, and lanolin.
Parabens
Parabens are common preservatives used in cosmetic products. Preservatives are essential in ensuring product safety. Without them, you’re left with a potential breeding ground for bacteria that could be dangerous to your health. While science has proven parabens to be safe for use in cosmetics, marketing-led conversations about parabens have led consumers to believe otherwise. These fear-based conversations have caused companies to formulate using alternative preservatives. We don’t use parabens because so many people avoid them in their personal care routines. We use potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate as preservatives in our products. We recommend reading this blog post on preservatives from The Eco Well, and watching this video if you’re interested in learning more about parabens and their safety.
pH Scale
The pH (potential hydrogen) scale refers to the acidity level of a substance. The pH of skin is typically around 5.5, or slightly acidic. Repeated exposure to high or low pH products (especially high pH products) can compromise your skin barrier leading to irritation and inflammation. This isn’t the case for everyone—the pH of your skin can actually bounce back quite quickly)—but it is a greater concern for people with pre-existing skin issues. We carefully formulate all of our personal care products to support your skin’s natural pH levels.
Saponified Oils
Saponification is the process of adding an alkali to a fat, oil or lipid to turn it into soap. This reaction forms carboxylate salt surfactants, which have a pH close to 9 that cannot be adjusted. Simply put, saponified oils are soap. Winden products don’t contain soap. So, what do we use? Our preferred cleansing agent is sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI), a surfactant derived from coconut or palm oil, which can be pH adjusted and is a gentler surfactant than soap.
Alkyl and Alkyl Ether Sulfate
A category of surfactants, or detergents, used in personal care products. The most common are sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate. They are extremely effective cleansers, but have been perceived as harsh in certain formulations. It is actually possible to produce very gentle SLS/SLES based cleansers. We’ve chosen to formulate our products without SLS/SLES, because we know some consumers choose to avoid those ingredients.
Cleansing Surfactant
A type of surfactant compound formulated to cleanse and act as foaming agents. These ingredients work by helping water mix with oil and dirt so that the excess can be rinsed away from skin/hair. They are commonly used in cosmetic products.
Materials
Cellulose Acetate
Cellulose acetate is prepared by introducing an acetyl group (like vinegar) to cellulose (a major component of cell walls that surround plants). The addition of an acetyl group to cellulose makes it a semi-synthetic material, much like rayon or viscose. It is considered a biodegradable polymer, but will only biodegrade under specific conditions.
The cellulose used in Winden pieces is derived from wood and cotton linters. If you’re no longer using a cellulose acetate Winden product and would like to dispose of it properly, please reach out to info@shopwinden.com. We will provide you with a shipping label and will send items back to our manufacturer for recycling.
Found In: Line Barrette, Petite Line Barrette Set, Oval Barrette, Petite Oval Barrette, Classic Clip, Petite Clip Set, Grande Clip, Plus Grande Clip, Recycled Comb, Recycled Barrette
Made In: Our cellulose acetate is manufactured in Italy, and our products are manufactured in France. These factories operate in accordance with the European REACH guidelines.
LEARN MORE
This paper from the Journal of Polymers and the Environment discusses the biodegradability of cellulose acetate and outlines some of the factors that contribute to how this material degrades and at what rate.
https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10924-010-0258-0
Puls, J., Wilson, S.A. & Hölter, D. Degradation of Cellulose Acetate-Based Materials: A Review. J Polym Environ 19, 152–165 (2011).
Stainless Steel
Our hair accessories are made with plated stainless steel closures and our Refillable Container is made from stainless steel. Durable and long-lasting, stainless steel is made of iron alloys and chromium, a hard metal that prevents rusting and provides heat-resistance. If you’re no longer using one of our hair accessories with stainless steel closures or our Refillable Container and would like to dispose of it properly, please reach out to info@shopwinden.com. We will help you locate a local scrap metal recycler so that our products can be recycled and made into something new.
Found In: Line Barrette, Petite Oval Barrette, Classic Clip, Petite Clip Set, Grande Clip, Plus Grande Clip, Recycled Barrette, Oval Barrette, and Petite Line Barrette Set.
Made In: Made In: The plated stainless steel used for the closures in our hair accessories is made in France in accordance with the European REACH regulations. More details to come on our manufacturing partner for our Refillable Container.
LEARN MORE
Stainless steel is one of the world’s most recycled materials; 85% is recycled once reaching its end of life according to the International Stainless Steel Forum (ISSF). Of stainless steel recycled in 2015, 85% was recycled into either new stainless steel (56%) of new carbon steel (29%). In comparison, it is estimated that, globally, we have only recycled 9% of plastics made, or 8.3 metric tonnes, as of 2015. Estimates of plastic recycling in the United States, specifically, were even lower (6.2%) in 2015.
https://www.worldstainless.org/about-stainless/environment/recycling/
https://advances.sciencemag.org/content/3/7/e1700782
Roland Geyer, Jenna R. Jambeck and Kara Lavender Law. Production, use, and fate of all plastics ever made. Science Advances 19 Jul 2017: Vol. 3, no. 7, e1700782. DOI: 10.1126/sciadv.1700782
The average lifespan for stainless steel is estimated to be 20 years according to this summary of a study by Barbar Reck, a senior research scientist at Yale, conducted in 2015. Think of it this way: stainless products put into use in 2001 are just now becoming available for reuse and recycling.
Due to limited availability globally, we’re not able to produce new stainless steel solely from scrap material, but if we could, the energy use would be 67% less than virgin-based production, and CO2 emissions would be cut by 70%. The more scrap materials used to produce new stainless steel, the lower the energy use. This article outlines more of the benefits that come with stainless steel recycling.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S03014215070
Jeremiah Johnson, B.K. Reck, T. Wang, T.E. Graedel, The energy benefit of stainless steel recycling, Energy Policy, Volume 36, Issue 1, 2008, Pages 181-192, ISSN 0301-4215
Ingredients
Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract (Baobab Seed Extract)
✔︎ Safe for use according to Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
✔︎ Safe for use according to the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union
Derived from seeds of the baobab tree, which are native to Madagascar, mainland Africa and Australia, this nutrient-rich oil has been used for centuries by local communities for everything from food to medicine to cosmetics. Just about every part of the plant has value and serves a purpose. In Northern Nigeria, the seeds (which are rich in protein) are used to prepare a local condiment called Issai. When it comes to cosmetic uses, baobab seed oil is high in vitamins (B,C, and E) and omega-3 fatty acids, which help to nourish hair and skin while delivering intense hydration. It also helps to seal the hair cuticle, keeping hair smooth and frizz-free.
Purpose: Emollient (softens skin/hair)
Found In: Signature Solid Shampoo
LEARN MORE
This study from the Brazilian Journal of Pharmacology explores the cosmetic potential and benefits of baobab oil.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0102695X1630087
Baatile M. Komane, Ilze Vermaak, Guy P.P. Kamatou, Beverley Summers, Alvaro M. Viljoen,
Beauty in Baobab: a pilot study of the safety and efficacy of Adansonia digitata seed oil,
Revista Brasileira de Farmacognosia, Volume 27, Issue 1, 2017, Pages 1-8, ISSN 0102-695X,
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bjp.2016.07.001
This study from the African Journal of Biotechnology dives into the composition of the baobab seed.
Nkafamiya, I., Osemeahon, S., Dahiru, D., & Umaru, H. (2007). Studies on the chemical composition and physicochemical properties of the seeds of baobab ( Adasonia digitata ). African Journal of Biotechnology, 6.
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
✔︎ Safe for use according to Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
✔︎ Safe for use according to the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union
Derived from rapeseed oil, behentrimonium methosulfate is a quaternary ammonium salt compound that is commonly used to condition hair and act as an antistatic agent. Quaternary ammonium compounds, also called quats, are used to condition hair, prevent frizz, reduce static, and lock in moisture. We use it in place of silicones in our Moisturizing Solid Shampoo. While behentrimonium methosulfate is a sulfate, it is not an alkyl or alkyl ether sulfate — all Winden products are free of alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates.
Purpose: Conditioning (enhances look and feel of hair/skin), Antistatic Agent (prevents the buildup of static electricity)
Found in: Signature Solid Shampoo
LEARN MORE
This study classifies behentrimonium methosulfate as a conditioning agent and lists it as safe for use in cosmetics.
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/1091581812467378
Becker LC, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2012;31(6 Suppl):296S-341S. doi:10.1177/1091581812467378
Benzyl Benzoate
✔︎ Safe for use according to Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
✔︎ Safe for use according to the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union
Benzyl Benzoate is an ester of Benzyl Alcohol. Benzyl Alcohol is found in many fruits and plants like apricots, cranberries, jasmine, and mushrooms. It can also be created in a lab and is used in fragrances to slow the evaporation of scents.
Purpose: supporting fragrance ingredient
Found in: Signature Solid Shampoo (scented)
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (Shea Butter)
✔︎ Safe for use according to Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
✔︎ Safe for use according to the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union
Shea butter comes from the the nuts of karité trees that grow in the Sahel region extending from West to East Africa, from Guinea and Senegal to Uganda and South Sudan. It is made up of 45-50% oleic acid, 30-41% stearic acid, 5-9% plamitic acid and 4-5% linoleic acid. When used in cosmetics, it’s considered an emollient, and can enhance the appearance and feel of hair by increasing hair body, suppleness, or sheen by improving the texture of hair that has been damaged.
Purpose: Emollient (softens skin/hair)
Found in: Signature Solid Shampoo
LEARN MORE
This article looks at the benefits of topical application of plant oils, including shea butter.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5796020/#B50-ijms-19-00070
Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017;19(1):70. Published 2017 Dec 27. doi:10.3390/ijms19010070
Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetyl Alcohol
CETEARYL ALCOHOL
✔︎ Safe for use according to Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
✔︎ Safe for use according to the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union
https://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/cetyl-alcohol
CETYL ALCOHOL
✔︎ Safe for use according to Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
✔︎ Safe for use according to the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union
When most people think of alcohol, they typically think of ethyl or isopropyl which are both used in disinfectants. Cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol are derived from fatty acids in plant or vegetable oils (like palm or coconut oil) and are solid at room temperature. (Cetearyl alcohol is actually made up of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.) These fatty alcohols are used to help stabilize our emulsions (keeping liquids from separating) and to increase cleansing and foaming capacity. They also help to thicken formulas and they can be considered emollients.
Purpose: Stabilizer (keep liquids from separating)
Found in: Signature Solid Shampoo (Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol)
Decyl Glucoside
✔︎ Safe for use according to Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
✔︎ Safe for use according to the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union
Decyl Glucoside is a cleansing surfactant derived from glucose. It is formed by reacting an alcohol with a cyclic form (ring form) of glucose. It is commonly used in shampoos and body washes. Decyl glucoside, when paired with sodium cocoyl isethionate, gives our shampoo a rich, foamy lather.
Purpose: Cleansing Surfactant (cleansing and foaming agent; removes excess dirt and oil)
Found in: Signature Solid Shampoo
Panthenol
✔︎ Safe for use according to Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
✔︎ Safe for use according to the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union
DL-PPanthenol is derived from vitamin B5 (also known as pro-vitamin B5). Used in both skin and haircare, it acts as a humectant, pulling moisture in from the surrounding atmosphere to keep hair and skin hydrated. Panthenol works by binding to hair follicles, keeping hair hydrated and adding structure without weighing it down or impacting texture. It also has the ability to penetrate deep into the skin, which helps the scalp retain essential moisture and improves barrier function.
Purpose: Conditioning (enhances look and feel of hair/skin)
Found In: Signature Solid Shampoo
LEARN MORE
This study from the Journal of Cosmetic Science looks at the skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations.
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21982351/
Camargo FB Jr, Gaspar LR, Maia Campos PM. Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. J Cosmet Sci. 2011;62(4):361-370.
This study looks at the anti-aging benefits of panthenol.
http://sphinxsai.com/2016/ph_vol9_no7/1/(99-104)V9N7PT.pdf
Surjanto, & Reveny, J. & Tanuwijaya, J. & Tias, A. & Calson,. (2016). Comparison of anti-aging effect between vitamin B3 and provitamin B5 using skin analyzer. 9. 99-104.
This study in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment looks at the relationship between the skin barrier function and topical panthenol.
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/09546634.2016.1214235
Hans Stettler, Peter Kurka, Nathalie Lunau, Caroline Manger, Arne Böhling, Stephan Bielfeldt, Klaus-Peter Wilhelm, Stephan Dähnhardt-Pfeiffer, Dorothee Dähnhardt, Florian H. H. Brill & Holger Lenz (2017) A new topical panthenol-containing emollient: Results from two randomized controlled studies assessing its skin moisturization and barrier restoration potential, and the effect on skin microflora, Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 28:2, 173-180, DOI: 10.1080/09546634.2016.1214235
Glycerin
✔︎ Safe for use according to Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
✔︎ Safe for use according to the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union
Glycerin is a natural humectant that is found in plant and animal fats and is also produced synthetically. Most glycerin is produced via the waste of biofuel production as that is the cheapest source. It acts as a humectant, pulling moisture in from the surrounding atmosphere to keep hair and skin hydrated. The Cosmetics Ingredient Review Expert Panel has found glycerin to be safe for use in concentrations up to 99% in rinse-off products, like shampoo and conditioner. We rely on glycerin for its hydrating properties.
Purpose: Humectant (absorbs water from the atmosphere and draws it into skin/hair; helps prevent moisture loss)
Found in: Signature Solid Shampoo
LEARN MORE
This study shows the benefits of glycerin when used as a leave-on treatment for improving dandruff.
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25134312/
Harding CR, Matheson JR, Hoptroff M, et al. A high glycerol-containing leave-on scalp care treatment to improve dandruff. Skinmed. 2014;12(3):155-161.
This CIR study assesses the safety of glycerin in cosmetics.
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/1091581819883820#_i55
Becker LC, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. Safety Assessment of Glycerin as Used in Cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2019;38(3_suppl):6S-22S. doi:10.1177/1091581819883820
Potassium Sorbate
✔︎ Safe for use according to Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
Potassium sorbate is the potassium salt of sorbic acid, it’s a food-grade preservative used in personal care products. The purpose? Killing the growth and reproduction of microorganisms that would otherwise cause a product to spoil. We rely on this effective preservative to extend the life of our products.
Why use preservatives at all?
The last thing you want is for a product that you’re applying to your hair or skin to go bad and preservatives play an important role in ensuring product safety. Without it, you’re left with a potential breeding ground for bacteria that could be dangerous to your health.
Purpose: Preservative
Found in: Signature Solid Shampoo
LEARN MORE
This report assesses the safety of potassium sorbate in cosmetic formulations.
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.3109/10915818809078711
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sorbic Acid and Potassium Sorbate. Journal of the American College of Toxicology. 1988;7(6):837-880. doi:10.3109/10915818809078711
Moroccan Lava Clay
Morrocan lava clay has not yet been evaluated by the Cosmetics Ingredient Review Expert Panel or the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union.
Moroccan lava clay is a mineral-rich red clay found in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco. It has been used by women in North Africa for centuries to cleanse hair and skin — the name itself is derived from the Arabic word meaning “to wash.” This clay gently cleanses, nourishes, and detoxifies hair and scalp using natural minerals. We’re excited to use an ingredient with such a rich history in our shampoo.
Purpose: Cleansing Agent
Found in: Signature Solid Shampoo
Made in: Morocco
LEARN MORE
This study from the journal Cosmetics explores more of the benefits for Rhassoul Clay in shampoos and hair care and how it compares to ingredients found in traditional formulations.
Gubitosa J, Rizzi V, Fini P, Cosma P. Hair Care Cosmetics: From Traditional Shampoo to Solid Clay and Herbal Shampoo, A Review. Cosmetics. 2019; 6(1):13.
Sodium Benzoate
✔︎ Safe for use according to Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
✔︎ Safe for use according to the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union
Sodium benzoate is a salt of benzoic acid and is used as a preservative in personal care and cosmetics products. We add this preservative to our formulas to help extend and protect product life.
Why use preservatives at all?
The last thing you want is for a product that you’re applying to your hair or skin to go bad and preservatives play an important role in ensuring product safety. Without it, you’re left with a potential breeding ground for bacteria that could be dangerous to your health.
Purpose: Preservative
Found in: Signature Solid Shampoo
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
✔︎ Safe for use according to Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
✔︎ Safe for use according to the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union
Sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) is a surfactant that can be derived from coconut oil and/or palm oil that is used in both hair and skin cleansing products. According to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, it can be used at 50% in rinse-off products (think shampoo, body wash, and bath soaps) and at 17% in a leave-on product. Our Moisturizing Solid Shampoo has a concentration of 45%. This surfactant works by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so they can easily be rinsed away from skin and hair. Studies show that SCI is less damaging to the skin barrier than soap.
Purpose: Surfactant (cleansing and foaming agent; removes excess dirt and oil)
Found in: Signature Solid Shampoo
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa Seed Butter)
✔︎ Safe for use according to Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel
✔︎ Safe for use according to the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union
The use and origins of cocoa dates back to the Mayan and Aztec civilizations, where it was used both nutritionally and medicinally. Cocoa seed butter is the fat extracted from the seeds of the Theobroma cacao. We rely on this softening butter in our Moisturizing Solid Shampoo to help prevent the loss of moisture from the scalp.
Purpose: Emollient (softens skin/hair), Occlusive (prevents moisture loss)
Found in: Signature Solid Shampoo
LEARN MORE
This article, from the journal Nutrients, looks at the bioactive compounds in cocoa and how they relate to skin health.